Our last day in Moscow

There has been a lot to see and do, but I am a bit home sick. I have ideas for my next visit, but for now, I feel like I’ve seen and done enough for one visit.

After a sprint to a nice restaurant (Evgueni’s Dad walks reallllly fast) we enjoyed dining one more time with E’s Dad and colleague. We talked, laughed and relaxed while listening to some good classic tunes.

Next stop Oxford: for Easter with the extended family & friends.

Yesterday was a long day in Moscow.

We had a very nice weekend in St.Petersburg with Evgueni's Grandfather & his wife. Lots of conversation (yes, Russian) and lots and lots of eating. Some drinking too, but it doesn't count if it's vodka right? - jokes, it was wine :)

(more about St.Pete's soon).

Coming back to Moscow from St. Petersburg was too memorable for comfort.

We took the overnight train there and back (very nice!!!). These trains between Moscow and St.Petersburg arrive at their destination in time for the morning rush hour in their respective cities. So yesterday we arrived in Moscow at 7:55am after our wonderful weekend and were in the metro (on the redline) at about 8:15. Without knowing it, we were in the metro about 20 minutes after the first bombing. Although we missed the bombing, (thank god) the chaos of a failing public transit line was ever present (the communications over the loudspeakers warned of "delays due to technical difficulties"). The Moscow metro is quite full most of the time as public transit is the only way to reliably get around the city ~ but it was even more so now. Moving up and down stairs or through the tunnels we were in a sea of people rippling along. Every now and then a stronger, bigger wave when people pushed quite violently against each other to move into and out of trains. One train came and went then the next. Authorities came around forcing commuters off trains and redirecting us to the other, more peripheral lines.

Russians will run when they have the opportunity to get somewhere first. So following the advice of the authorities, the platform, to my amazement cleared out quickly. Us not being as quick on the response, stood in one spot for another minute to consider our options. During which time another train arrived ~ empty. We looked at it as if in a stare-down, it opened its doors and we dropped our jaws. We got in with some other stragglers. All of us got seats. We were waiting for the announcer to kick us out but eventually, the doors closed and we started moving. Weird. The next stop, however, was different. Seeing the mob waiting for our train, I stood-up knowing I'd need to be close to the door because the next stop was ours. People rushed and packed into the train like crazy only to have the train stand there for a long time. People kept jamming in, then impatiently pushing out. Evgueni and I were carrying our luggage so we were really annoying people (bags bulging everywhere etc.). People simply kept shuffling around until the dents of other peoples bodies settled in.

We waited.

Eventually we departed the station but not before the last minute people jumped back into the already bursting train. We were slowly pulling into the next stop when I suddenly realized that we were actually passing through. I was still heavily leaning against people to indicate my need to exit when we were back in the tunnel headed away from our stop. Although I was nearly at the door, I didn't see anything in our station because the crowd of people in the train was so thick. But I was rather indifferent to it other than missing our stop. Evgueni on the other hand, was against the door and saw commotion on the platform; stretchers, medical personal, blood and debris. He didn't tell me until we were making our way out of the Metro at the next stop. He told me he thought there must have been a gun fight or something far more serious and not the "technical difficulties" the Metro had warned us about.

Only when we got to the hotel did we find out what was happening. We turned the news on and realized that we'd just missed the first bombing and the second one happened while we were stuck in the train. Too close. The first one had happened in the opposite direction that we were going and that's why we were still able to pass through the station. The second one had happened 2 stops after the station we got off. Freaky. Victims had been airlifted out and the response was fast. Fortunately there were no fires to worsen the situation.

What a stupid stupid thing. What in the world they can actually do to prevent something like this from happening again is limited.

Evgueni's Dad is also in Moscow on business (at our hotel!!), but we couldn't reach him right away as the cellular network lines were down and the remaining lines were at capacity. We started getting worried. Fortunately, he was safe and sound asleep in his cozy hotel bed. We saw him for breakfast and a dose of comfort.

All this before 9 am... Yesterday was a long day.

Evgueni and I were a bit stunned and lay on the bed for about 2 hours watching news coverage and holding each other tightly. I'm glad I'm here if for no other reason but for those few hours. What a day.

Later, I had to go out as I forgot my brush in St.Petersburg. I didn't want to. I went to the underground mall in front of the Kremlin and the streets were empty. The Red Square was empty. The mall was empty. I've been to this area enough times over the last week to know that this was not normal. Everything was sombre and quiet. My touristy mood has disappeared.

At these times, I really realize what is actually important. I don't ever like forgetting the important things, but inevitably, routine sets in and the concerns of daily life consume me.

I suppose like everything, there are two sides to this though: sometimes too much knowing of what is important can be overwhelming too.

Moscow ~ Day 4

It seems that the great melt down has come to Moscow. The weather is mild and overcast, everything is drippy and melting and there is drizzly rain. Locals are hard at work chipping away at dense ice to speed the melt down. My long johns have been put away until further notice.

We had a busy Sunday. We toured the Kremlin, it’s many small and beautiful cathedrals the Armory, it’s gorgeous Faberge eggs, Cathrine the Great’s golden embroidered gowns etc., the giant Tsar Cannon and 220 ton Bell (minus the 12 ton piece that broke off) and the rest of the fortified and heavily guarded property. We will have to visit the Diamond Fund next time as it was sold out. Truth be told, it was a full day even missing it.

I was surprised by how tiny the golden onion domed cathedrals were! I suppose they were meant to be very exclusive venue. One of them was so small that when exiting down the stairs, it almost tossed us out its tiny little door. No comments on our sins please… The frescos were bright and plastered all over the wall (pun intended). The gold work and iconostasis* was all very impressive.

After lunch at the entrance to the Kremlin near the Red Square, we analyzed the statue of Marshal Zhukov astride his horse raising his hand as a symbol of his defending the Kremlin. We looked, pondered, laughed, yes laughed, and debated. We decided Evgueni’s diagnosis was right: the horses’ legs are unnaturally straight and left it at that.



Following the great analysis, we passed under the Resurrection Gate to stroll through the Red Square. Having already been in the Red Square already a number of times didn’t bother me as I really enjoy the vibrant architecture, the atmosphere and the people. We took some photos of St. Basil’s Cathedral, the Historical Museum, the wall graves and Lenin’s Mausoleum, the GUM façade etc. It’s pretty amazing how many locals are regularly spending time visiting cultural landmarks, museums and historical monuments. It made me very happy. The first time I noticed this interest in history and culture was a couple of years ago in St. Petersburg, however, having grown-up in North America, I’m not really used to seeing this “spectacle” and I was surprised again. I know this sounds terrible, but sadly, the “classic” upbringing is not nearly as popular in NA as it is in Europe or Russia – or Asia for that matter. Could it be simply a lack of cultural riches or the "melting pot"? I digress.

On the subject of analysis, I’ve got some other personal observations/discovery. Or perhaps this next section is simply a bit of a “moan”…

I experience challenges with constant travel. I am a creature of routine with sporadic bouts of spontaneity. A fall back routine always comforts and recharges me. Also, being alone isn’t a problem for designated periods of time, as long as I am doing something that can stimulate my brain and is pertinent to me. Having said all that, tourism isn’t always fun (especially alone) and in a country where I have no language skills it can be quite exhausting and difficult. I don’t expect sympathy as people often express “jealousy” for my life style. And knowing that at some point, I may look back longingly for this time in my life, although not always easy, I try to enjoy even the difficult times.

On a more positive note: I was happy to notice that my culture shock is not as pronounced as before. I believe I owe thanks to Germany where I’ve lived this past year. I’ll make a generalization here: Some places I’ve visited and locals I’ve encountered in Eastern Europe (Germany, Czech Republic and Russia) are quite abrupt and direct (in crowds (non-conversational interaction) and in casual communications). But this time, I quickly overlooked this stereotype and got straight to enjoying the local way of life embracing it much more than before.

Now exhausted and back at the hotel, we ended the evening by some seriously trashy TV. We watched a movie we borrowed from the hotel: “Meet the Fockers II”. It had me laughing hysterically and probably waking-up the neighbours. Suffice to day, I felt like I digested dinner properly before falling asleep.

* www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iconostasis

Moscow ~ Day 3

We slept-in. How blissful! We started the day with brunch at one of our favourite chains “Le Pain Quotidien” ahhh! Yum! I love their Tartine but this time, had their quiche, fresh OJ and coffee. It was delicious!

We headed to the suburban part of Moscow to see the Stalin Pavilion buildings. In their day, they were surely glorious with their large, groomed grounds, the central golden fountain and the good Moscowvites in awe of them. They now stand, some more glorious than the others, a bit aged and neglected - but not abandoned since they now host an expansive eclectic market selling all sorts of things ranging from gardening supplies to Faberge egg key chains. I chose my favourite building and took a whack of photos. Nearby, we checked-out the Monument to the Conquerors of Space.

We headed back towards the centre. Even on a weekend, the Metro is packed. It is the only reliable way to get around as the street traffic is obscene and the gridlock is absurd. As I’ve mentioned before, the Russian Metro systems are amazing. They are an engineering feat, used as bunkers during the war and decorated rather elaborately for everyday use. There is only one real downfall; although I tried to find signage to orient myself, I struggled. So I chose to simply follow Evgueni around.

We headed to the Galchug Island near the centre of Moscow and saw a wedding party locking padlocks to the metal trees rooted in the Lovers’ pedestrian bridge.

We continued our walk along the river opposite to the Kremlin counting the golden onion domes on the cathedrals within the Kremlin. Towards the end of our walk we enjoyed Alexander Gardens, which runs along side the Kremlin, and saw a pack of stray dogs running up and down the hills whilst on the hunt for dinner.

Since Evgueni and I didn’t feel like running through the park like hungry dogs, we headed for traditional Russian food at a theme restaurant. The décor had us sitting on a river with a Watermill spilling water from its scoops. Surrounding the river, there were different levels of wooden house fronts with the balconies and patios for diners to eat, allowing us a piazza-like atmosphere while dining. The “piazza” was decorated with trees, vines and flowers. Also, there was a large stone oven in the middle of the restaurant like a traditional northern Russian chalet would have (I was told). Our meals were served in clay pots and on country house plates and tasted like home made. Everything matched the theme and we enjoyed the delicious food and decor equally.

Our aperitif was a thoroughly enjoyable pine nut vodka. We shared an entrée platter with delicious meat stuffed in sweet bread and an assortment of salted greens including: tomatoes, apples, pickles, cabbage, red pepper and something that had the texture of soft little twigs. Perhaps we were eating the décor?? Yum!

For my main, I had a savory beef stroganoff in sour cream sauce accompanied by Wonder berry juice. YUM again! After the main we shared two desserts: the cherry ravioli with cherry sauce and whipped cream and an apple strudel. I topped-out half way through the cherry ravioli. It was a fabulous dinner and the value for the money was matched. If we go back, I’d order the same thing ~ perhaps excluding the dessert.

We waddled home slowly. Evgueni found this to be too much exercise as he was practically carrying me home. During our slow stroll to the hotel we enjoyed the view and commotion of one of the main shopping streets at night. The weather was mild. In combination with our waddle, we were simultaneously dodging aggressive sidewalk-slush-removal-trucks in front of us, and streaming water from eaves troughs overhead. Could this be spring in Moscow?

Moscow ~ Day 2

We awoke dreadfully early to go out for breakfast together at a local café. I ate some pancakes with jam accompanied by delicious fresh orange juice and super-strong coffee.

I was exhausted. E and I parted ways, him to work and me, back to the hotel for a luxurious 1 hour nap as I didn’t think the coffee had any chance in keeping me awake for the next 15 hours. I woke up feeling rested but chilled, so I climbed into my trusty long johns to restart the day. It had started snowing during my nap and I knew the weather must be warmer than before. I hoped the long johns were a smart idea as I’d planned to be indoors most of the day.

Having recharged, I walked a couple of kilometers to the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts. I knew I had found it when I spotted a line-up that went about 300 meters from the entrance. I skeptically joined the back of the line and was instantly glad for my long johns. Shortly after arriving, I was no longer the last in line (phew) when woman spoke to me in Russian. We understood each other’s misery and hunkered down for the wait.

The snow began to fall as if it was pouring rain. For the first 20 minutes the line only shortened when people gave-up and left. 45 minutes later, I was in the home stretch. However, now I could see all the budding that was going on at the front of the line. I really don’t know why other people let this happen, but I believe Evgueni is right: “First and foremost, people care only for themselves”. His theory was proved to me twice over as I saw that people kept budders behind them by pressing more tightly into the crowd and keeping their elbows sharp. I found this quiet revenge comforting and the tightening crowd was fine with me as my long johns could only do so much at this point.

An hour after arriving, I was finally past the main gate. I felt comforted again as the group that I was let in with uniformly and simultaneously began a funny dance of stomping snowy feet, wiggling bodies, dusting-off accumulated snow and dashing for the ticket booth. I was not alone! Ahh, my frozen comrades!

The museum was great. I took it all in blissfully and calmly. It was comprehensive and wonderful.

A special Picasso exhibit was featured throughout a 3^rd of the museum and I relished in his artistic evolution. There were sketches and paintings depicting Picasso’s various epochs, wooden, plaster and assorted metal sculptures and even a film. Eventually, I realized I was starving and grabbed a cheap and tasty lunch. I then continued absorbing the Ancient Greek and Egyptian sections of the museum.

Before I knew it, most of the day had passed and I had yet to go to the neighbouring Museum containing private art collections. I needed to get a healthy dose of my favourite Impressionist artists!

I wandered around some small side streets for about 15 minutes only to find that the museum I was looking for was right next-door to the first. Having thought that the ticked I bought included this museum as well as some others; I had a minor “altercation” with an angry old lady at the museum before I was charged for a new ticket. Rather indifferent to the interaction, I excitedly charged into the museum. I found what I was looking for: A wonderful dose of Renoir, Monet, Chagall, Rodin and many other artists. I fell in love with some of Renoir’s paintings all over again. The colours, the intimate personal touch he has… ahhh!!! And Rodin ~ to show such purity, soft, gentle and loving emotion in STONE is truly a talent. What an emotional experience!

I walked home enthusiastically and energized. I took in the crowd of people heading home from work for the weekend. The city was now warmer and had a fresh, clean coat of snow. The 8 lanes of traffic chaos was a minimal background muffle and the streetlights shone on glistening snow as it fell.

Evgueni and I went to a chain Restaurant we’ve been to before in St. Petersburg. This place is called “Elki Palki” which literally translates to “Pines sticks” or the equivalent of the English expressions “Fiddle Sticks” or “nuts”, or “darn it”. I had borsch, mashed potatoes and rice with carrots. To drink we had traditional Wonder berry juice. Yum!!

On the way home we stopped in a magnificent market. It is similar the Bon Marché in Paris. And to give you an idea of it’s beauty, it belongs to the Elysée brothers. The décor was extravagant and more like an opera house with enormous glorious chandeliers, colourful walls with gold leaf treatments and scalloped columns rising up about 12-meters to an ornately decorated ceiling. We splurged and bought some treats and bread and cheese for Sunday’s breakfast.

My poor “LANGUAGE” !!!

So, over the past couple of years I think my Russian language skills have improved slightly.  I recognize a small number of words and can create a monologue in my mind.  Weather I actually know what is being said is rather irrelevant at this point.  Suffice to say, I am creating a soap opera in my mind and find it mildly entertaining when I have no idea what is being said around me.

Here in Moscow, I am totally derailing my brain.  If you want to pronounce an English “V” in Russian, the English letter “B” replaces it.   Similarly “C” is not a “C” but it’s an “S” with some exceptions (I think).  “N” is written “H”, “H” is “X”, to pronounce the English “R” it is written, as “P” and Ivanov is Иванов.  You get the picture.

The afore-mentioned description confused the hell out of Evgueni, so I think he might sympathize with me a bit more?!? Can you guess what this says: “PECTOPAH”? Once I think I’ve got some of these letter switches memorized, suddenly, the letters are flipped upside and backwards.  Sometimes the letters even look stylized (with a little tail or something) but it actually changes the letter entirely! 

Ouch my aching brain!

Fun with words

Language mix-ups I’ve seen on menus in Russia:

- Boiled Language (means boiled beef tongue)

- Tortured Rabbit (means rabbit stew ~ although…)

- Mix of green salad with cotton cheese

- Pizza with hum

Too much information:

“Liver of the Geese: which were bought for a very high price from Testov having been fed by him personally in his country house, using special feeders where legs of the geese were partitioned with bars: “to cherish their livers!””

Something I don’t think I’ll try:

- Wart tongue salad

Moscow ~ Day 1

Moscow.  I froze my butt off the moment I arrived.  But the sky was deep blue and big.  The big sky is one of my favourite things about Russia.

Arriving at the airport I made it 6^th in line for passport control.  Knowing about chronic line situation in Russia, I was very proud of myself.  There were 2 officers for my line and I was ecstatic.  Guaranteed efficiency!  However, I shouldn’t have patted myself on the back so soon because somehow, when I arrived one officer went on break.  Shortly after, the 2 people directly ahead of me slowed things down considerably. 

The line next to me processed 18 people for the time it took the 2 in front of me.  That doesn’t include the 2 people who felt more entitled than the rest of us and budded in front the 2 people in front of me with a “question” for the passport officer.  So I waited… 

Having been tied up so long with passport control, within 60 seconds of being processed, my luggage jumped off the belt into my hands and I passed through customs to the greeting gallery.  There was a mob.  Somehow, I managed to avoid the persistent taxi offers and was found by Evgueni shortly after.  It was wonderful for him to meet me at the airport!  We ran and caught the train he had arrived in for our commute to the Moscow city centre.

Evgueni had to run back to work (starved since he picked me up while on his lunch break ~ poor guy)! So I was left to begin my adventure.

We are really lucky to be staying in a central hotel so, a-pied, I navigated easily to the Red Square.   The Red Square runs along the length of one side of the Kremlin.  And yes, it really is red with old red brick buildings surround it.  As I approached, I saw people, souvenir stands and buskers crowding the entry.  In front of the gate I found the polished spot demarking the centre of Moscow, from where all points are measured.  Here, people make wishes and throw coins over their shoulders for good luck.  Almost instantaneously, homeless people pick-up the larger denomination that fall. 

To enter the Red Square I passed under the “Resurrection Gate” which was rebuilt in 1995 after Stalin demolished it to allow his troops to enter the square more easily. 

Once passing the gate the square opens up with a museum to the right and a small cathedral where the Tzars prayed before entering the Kremlin to the left.  Further in and to the left sits elegantly the gigantic GUM shopping centre.  The central square is a vast open space in scattered with people walking and looking about.  To the right lie graves of Soviet heroes and the Lenin Mausoleum. 

Straight ahead I saw the famous St. Basil’s Cathedral in its bright glory.  It was beautiful, monumental and colourful while cast against the crisp blue sky.  On the down side, with the crisp blue sky comes the bitter cold.  The square was mostly free of tourists and locals.  So it was me, some professional photographers and a handful of other hardcore people wandering about snapping photos.  Within 2 hours my fingers were falling off and my bum was long gone ~ some place near the entrance gate I think.

To regrow my disembodied fingers I walked back through the GUM.  I snapped some photos of the spring scenes and beautiful architecture inside the shopping centre.

Having thawed a bit, I ventured back outside to the large piazza at Alexander Gardens to take in the Red Square and central Moscow from a new vantage point.  I watched the chaos of rush-hour traffic for a bit and watched some areas I would like to explore another day.  Just as I began to head back to the warm hotel I saw some love birds keeping warm ~ so I stole a photo of their romantic moment. 

The first time I was in Russia I visited St. Petersburg.  So being in Moscow now, I am amazed once again by the beautiful architecture and opulence all around and the stark contrast of the (apparent) income of many of the people.  Strictly judging by appearances I drew some conclusions: Like in many cities, a few people are well off while many are quite poor.  But from what I see, the well off are extremely so, and seem to be prolific in the city centre.  Also, observing the types of cars in Moscow (either speeding past or quadruple parked), it seems to have more of a middle class than St. Petersburg. 

Like in other wintery cities, springtime is a good time for a cleansing.  The dirty snow melts away and leaves behind everything that accumulated over the long winter.  Moscow is no exception.  Moscow is a bit dirtier than most cities though because strict regulations on car exhaust are lacking. The leaded exhaust sticks to the colourful buildings and everything else.  However, I witnessed a quick fix to this problem: in front of landmarks, posh hotels and department stores employees turn large icy snow piles upside down (shovel full by shovel full) to reveal the less dirty snow beneath. 

Even in the midst of the fast-pace life and late winter mess, lie wonderful cultural marvels: people dress to impress no mater how cold they probably are.  I've seen panty hose with miniskirts under spring jackets.  No hats or scarves but with faces pale as ghosts.  I've must admit, they DO look good!  

That night Evgueni and I went out for a nice dinner. The atmosphere was great and the décor and music was welcoming.  Unfortunately, we rediscovered smoking sections and had extremely slow service.  The grilled veal I ordered was unrecognizable when it came and it was probably an over done piece of pork but my pumpkin and side of grilled veggies were delicious.  To summarize, the price was exorbitant for the quality of the food. We took this on as a challenge and became determined to find more value for our money.

We arrived at the hotel very late and completely exhausted after a busy day.

Full Moon #2 & #3 ~ French Alps & Tyrol Region, Austria

Photos ~ approx. 20 & 20 (album with various trips)

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=399785&id=790580483&l=6372937346