Saturday, October 31, 2009

Prague ~ October 25-29


Prague was great! It played a beautiful backdrop to a wonderful few days. I did some touring with Leah and Patrik (her beautiful son) but mostly I was happy to hang out with her and location didn't really matter. We talked A LOT. There were very few moments of easy silence where we took breaths and suddenly came up with new subjects. Our conversations are so distilled now. We don’t need to start at the beginning but rather, go straight to the meat every time. I suppose this is a great advantage of growing-up together and sharing a friendship of 22-plus years.*

I learned more about Patrik and how Leah and Jirka’s daily lives have changed. She and baby are doing very well. He is extremely happy and is easily comforted. Although I believe he shares similar broccoli symptoms as his mom ~ poor thing ~ baby farts are especially hilarious when they sound so massive. He, like his mom also has Eczema, but because she knows it so well, she's treating him really well and is constantly applying creams etc. to avoid a break-out (about 7-10 times a day after his changings!) It ends up being a highly-recommended baby massage that bonds parent and child giving babies the confidence that they’ll turn to throughout their lives.

It was his 4th month birthday while I was there so he was graduating onto apple sauce, other fruit sauces and rice formula. All of which he ate at times quite greedily! (If you remember, it was also Evgueni's and my 4 month anniversary ~ but we're not really counting and we’ve been on solids for a while…). I digress. Babies grow soooo fast! Leah gave me tons of wonderful tips and she is an admirable Mommy!!

* It’s really nice, in the past couple of years with all this moving around I have made a small network of new friends and have great friendships that are maturing quite quickly. I am really lucky! :D

Prague ~ October 2009 ~ 57 Photos:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=340923&id=790580483&l=e32a80458c

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Bolivian Pyramid Update


A UNESCO Heritage site we visited on our tour just outside La Paz, Bolivia is under criticism for inaccurate/inappropriate restoration. It was a nice site to visit. But it isn't only the site that was inaccurate! For the tour, our guide was TERRIBLE!! She made-up curious stories as she took us along and meanwhile, we knew so much more (accurate) history about it than her. The stories were amusing though, and the inaccuracies and her persistence was hilarious! Some friends travelling with us, were literally rolling on the floor (ground) laughing their ass's off! I even have a hilarious photo of the incident! The tour was what we made it and hence, was a lot of fun!


Just in case you can't open the links (or it expires..) here's the second link:


By Tom Leonard in New York ~ Published: 7:00AM BST 21 Oct 2009
Ancient Bolivian pyramid 'could lose heritage status' after repairs

An ancient South American pyramid may lose its status as a UN World Heritage Site and even collapse after it was spruced up to "make it more attractive to tourists".

In a makeover of the 59-ft high Akapana pyramid in Bolivia that an expert has described as archaeologically disastrous, the structure was rebuilt with abobe instead of the original stone.
The weight of the adobe – a mixture of sand, clay, water and sticks or straw – is now making the lower decks of the edifice tilt and could even cause it to collapse, said the architect in charge of excavations.
Jose Luis Paz, an archaeologist who was appointed in June to assess damage to the site, said the state National Archaeology Union, or UNAR, was hired by the local town of Tiwanaku to make the pyramid look more like a pyramid.
One of the largest structures in South America, it looks more like a large hill than a pyramid – a consequence, say experts, of centuries of looting, quarrying of its stone and wind erosion.
Mr Paz said the town, which manages the site, wanted the pyramid to be "more attractive to tourists".
"They decided to go freehand with the design. There are no studies showing that the walls really looked like this," Mr Paz said. It should have been clear from looking at the site that the original structure was made from stone, he added.
Worse, he warned that the lower decks were slightly tilted because of the extra weight of the adobe walls, which could lead to the pyramid's collapse.
Sitting on the shores of Lake Titicaca 40 miles north of La Paz, the Bolivian capital, the pyramid once formed the spiritual core of the Tiwanaku civilisation.
The city-state, which predated the Incas, spread through Bolivia and parts of Peru, Argentina and Chile between 1500BC and 1200AD.
The pyramid is believed to date from 300AD to 700AD.
The local town may have been goaded into giving the pyramid a makeover by international guide books, which have been complaining for some years that it is a rather unimpressive sight.
The site gets thousands of visitors a year, each paying an entry fee of $10 (£6).
Pablo Groux, the Bolivian culture minister, dismissed some of the criticism and said the renovation was long overdue.
"The UNAR has restored the original form the pyramid had. If we look at pictures from five years ago, there was just a hill there," he said.
"What we can see now is something close to what the construction originally looked like."
The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation, or UNESCO, is due to visit Tiwanaku soon.
It could remove Akapana from its list of World Heritage Sites if it considers it has been excessively altered.
In 2000, UNESCO decided that Tiwanaku deserved to be on the list because its ruins "bear striking witness to the power of the empire that played a leading role in the development of the Andean pre-Hispanic civilisation".

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Monday, October 19, 2009

Romantic Get-Away

I sit here finishing my innocent meal of alphabet soup and salty pretzel sticks while trying to decide what to make of a series of strange luck on our romantic weekend getaway. Either way, it doesn’t seem to have really affected us since we still had a great time and did everything we wanted to do and more!


On Thursday I found out Evgueni had planned a surprise Romantic get-away for us. How exciting! All I was told was to bring winter gear and that we’d be hiking through snow.


We started our date weekend on Friday at 18:00 at the Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof under the train schedule where we picked-up our rental car. We went around the side of the train station and found our rental: a gigantic automatic mom-mobile Mercedes. We laughed at it a bit. “Okay” we mused out loud, “at least it’s good and sturdy!” We got in and “PEEYOU!” It was clearly used as an ashtray up until now. Blech! Ironically, early in our road-trip we drove past the pine tree air freshener factory!


Evgueni drove while I controlled the climate and the music. The car had automatic everything including radio stations, so we ended-up listening to an eclectic radio mix from central Europe for our weekend theme music. We bopped to German, French and American tunes from across many genres and decades ranging from Lionel Richie to Pink. We had some great conversations too. We passed many places i.e. Stuttgart and Konstanz, identifying churches, Rathaus’s and their traditional clock towers as we headed southbound through Germany.


We arrived at our first hotel pretty late, but were lucky to find our key in the mailbox. The heat was off in our room when we arrived (which isn’t unusual in Europe) so we cranked it and got cozy. Soon after falling asleep we were awakened by our upstairs neighbour hacking-up a lung. Soon though, we determined he wasn’t coughing, but rather, chucking. I’d recently heard of loud barfers, but had never actually witnessed/heard it before. Well, lucky us. He kept us up ALL night. Evgueni called him “Chucky Yucky”. Indeed. We hightailed it out of that hotel in the morning to enjoy our day elsewhere. “Elsewhere” being across the border in Switzerland.


We enjoyed wonderful scenery around the Swiss-German border. We passed St.Gallen and stopped at Rheinfalls in Switzerland, which is the biggest waterfall in Europe. It’s not huge like Niagara Falls but has a huge volume of water hurtling over the rock edge. It was amazing to see. There is a small hike you can take around the falls with many vantage points. Sadly, when we got to the path to the observation decks, it was closed. So like good Canadians we left it at that, took the boat back to our car and headed away somewhat unsatisfied. 2 minutes into our drive away, we reached the top of a hill and saw another park entrance. We developed proper guts, parked the car using the same parking pass as before, hiked back down the trail, hopped the “no trespassing” gate and went to the observation decks. It was worth it. They are set-up over the falls so that when you stand on them, the water rushes under your feet. What a crazy feeling having all the water hurtling past your eyes and underneath you with such force!


Now satisfied, we hopped in our stinky car to Lichtenstein. It’s a truly tiny and beautiful Country in the valley of the Alps. It was pouring rain but we took the opportunity to walk around a bit huddled cozily under our umbrella, have some tasty lunch and get a stamp in our passports from the tourist office (on one of those barely-used and always overlooked passport pages nobody ever uses because it’s already “sufficiently full” with 2 crooked stamps).


Next, we crossed the border into Austria where it continued to rain. We drove along the edge of the Alps (Tirol region) exploring curvy roads and checking out castles. Eventually we headed UP where suddenly, the rain became a snowstorm! We drove through Fernpaß with the Automatic windshield wipers wiping away the fast-falling-wet-blobs-of-snow. We marveled at the drooping pine branches loaded heavily with wet, fluffy snow. Ahh, the beauty of winter! We curved around bends and marveled at the mountain views around each new turn. The autumn yellows and oranges of the deciduous trees near the bottom half; the balding trees and frost line at the mid-point of the mountains and then the top half in wet, blackened pines covered with snow. It was a dream! The sun set quickly as it does in the mountains and it was suddenly dark.


We arrived at our chalet hotel in time for dinner. We stepped out of our smelly car into deliciously crisp winter air that filled our lungs with freshness and pine firewood burning smell that warmed us quickly. After taking some deliciously deep lungfuls of air we headed into our chalet. Our room was huge and had a great wooden table with surrounding benches. I immediately wished we had cards and a bunch of friends and family to play with. We relaxed for an hour surfing TV channels, settling on Snooker. Before this, neither of us was ever in the mood to watch a game, but it seemed the perfect thing that evening. We then went to the hotel restaurant for our 20:00 reservation. I had Red deer and Evgueni had the Roe deer. The difference is that I had the mature dear and E had the young buck. The food was delicious. But sadly, and unbeknownst to me, I was soon to be reminded why I eat steaks infrequently. We headed back to our room to relax after our delicious dining marathon. By 23:30 I was passing out, still stuffed to the gills. I awoke at 5:30am to a strong disturbance rumbling through my stomach making it’s way into my small intestine and then continuing to my large intestine… Suffice to say, I have not quite recovered from my 2007 amoeba and am perpetually sensitive to rich foods and large quantities of red meat. By about 5:37am I wanted that “get well again shower”. So I took it. It was a nice, steaming hot shower, after which, I felt much better. I crawled back into bed and slept until our alarm at 8:45.


Somehow, in those few hours since my steaming shower the hot water had run out! I called reception. They announced that the oil had run out and taken the hot water with it. Evgueni and I took turns splashing through the cold water to waken us from our slumber. Thank goodness for my early-morning shower! We peeked out the window for a spectacular hint at what gorgeous scenery awaited us today. We went for breakfast and then checked out to enjoy our day. As we walked out, we saw the oil truck (and its promise of hot showers) roll into the driveway. We climbed in the car to discover that we’d accidently left the sunroof open overnight and that it had basically cured the ashtray stink!


By now, I’d figured out my new bathroom schedule. I had about 2 hours between given pit stops by which to enjoy our Sunday. And by golly we did! (Gotta love that expression!) We did a daytime drive of Fernpaß and loved it again. This time we were able to see Blind Lake. It was beautiful! It’s a green lake tucked between the mountains and surrounded by trees and chalets. What a spectacular view!


Not far away was the Neuschwanstein Castle. The Disney Castle is modeled after it. It is pretty magnificent! We hiked up to the top of the mountain it is situated on (really, it’s a gradual slope, but in my condition, it was like hiking…). We decided to tour around the exterior this time since the snowyscape was so beautiful. At one of the tourist booths, we saw photos of the inside and have decided we are definitely going back to do the tour of the interior. Maybe at Christmas? It took us a couple of hours to look around the site and to take in the scenery. We got to the entrance to the Marienbrücke (bridge) and it was closed. We hesitated. I took the opportunity to find a toilet… after which we took one more look at the fenced-off avalanche-warning entrance, remembered our previous rebellion against fences and trespassing signs, and proceeded to climb around the fence. Evgueni is convinced that the sign was there only because the path hadn’t been cleaned of snow. He was probably right! We walked along the path past a couple of other closed gates and then arrived at Marienbrücke. It is a bridge wedged in a gorge. It was built around 1881 and remains pretty sturdy. Usually I don’t put myself out on a limb like this, but I’d already spilled my guts a couple of time that day, so really, I had nothing to loose. I walked straight out to the middle of it. It was beautiful. After what felt like 20 minutes on the bridge (probably about 5) I started getting wobbly knees and vertigo. I went back to “solid” ground and breathed deeply. It really was a spectacular view of the castle and of the waterfall through the deep gorge beneath. We got some photos (naturally) and I will post a link soon.


After the bridge we hiked back down to our car along a sloppy path happily dodging snow blobs that fell sporadically from trees onto our heads.


We then drove home in our not-so-stinky car, stopping every few hours to “stretch our legs”. We got home, had a light dinner cozied-up to each other under a down blanket and watched a funny movie.


It was a wonderful weekend and although I’ve detailed the annoyances, they really seemed more like characters in our great weekend and seemed quite minute compared to the wonderful scenery, smells and fun that we had.


- http://goeurope.about.com/od/rhinefallsrheinfall/ig/Rhine-Falls-Pictures/

- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liechtenstein

- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fern_Pass

- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neuschwanstein

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Cycling in Frankfurt

On Saturday Evgueni and I went for a bike ride around Frankfurt. We looked for a park to ride in. The one we found sounded nice, but it looked far. We decided to do goggle search and found out we’d have to cycle 15 km’s to get there. I suggested we take the metro there and ride back (soooo lazy!) but truthfully, I know my limits.


So naturally, we just started riding to enjoy the day. We cycled to the Frankfurt stadium to check it out. It looked like… a stadium. There was a football game and a loud crowd cheering. To get there we traveled mostly through the city. Frankfurt infrastructure is designed really well. There is a designated bicycle lane in almost every location. The lane is either on the road or on the sidewalk. When it’s on the sidewalk it is delineated by something as subtle as a different colour of interlocking brick, little steel dots attached to the sidewalk or a less subtle, painted bicycle or bollards. The lane is right next to traffic on the outside of the sidewalk and when on the road it’s always painted just like traffic lanes. If you want to make a left turn it turns you right, than straight. The transitions between road and sidewalk are smooth and usually intuitive. To the unaware tourist or even an oblivious local the subtle transitions can be deathly. Stay out of the lane or you WILL get run over. Lots of bell dinging and cursing going on at these impactful times. Here, people ride like they drive. Fast. Hard on the gas and hard on the break. I never heard so many screeching bike brakes in my life. But, although I’m getting used to it, I still find myself preparing to break (say, at a light) where everyone else is still pedaling like mad.


The good thing about the hard gas, brakes and lane rules etc. is that the rules become reliable and predictable. As a pedestrian, I can pretty much cross a crosswalk without looking trusting that no matter what (i.e. with hard slamming of breaks), the car will stop. I hate to point out the exception, but will anyway: I’ve noticed that the only people who are casual about this pedestrian rule that Germans take so seriously are people who “look foreign”. Which in turn is why I’m trying not to get too lazy about my street spidy sense.


Okay, so I’ve veered from our cycle….


We rode. We rode and we rode. Saturday was super WINDY!! Winter is strongly blowing in these days, so we had an extra force to contend with. By the time we got to the stadium (less than half way), my legs were aching and my butt was complaining despite the cushy ride. So, yes, I started moaning about it. Poor E! We rode on. Then suddenly we were ambushed from above! With all the wind the trees were swaying and dropping their bombs. We were pummeled by acorns! Lucky me, I was wearing my helmet – ping, ping, pop!! The crackle under my tires was really nice too although sometimes the little nuts would veer me slightly off course.


We finally got to A park and it was splendid! We rode through with giant grins pasted on our faces, pine tree fragrance swooshing our senses with a crackling acorn and walnut shell humming under our tires… ahhhhhh!!! All worth it!!


By now, we felt we had to head home. My legs were jello and my butt was protesting. We did a loop so that we could continue exploring while headed homeward. We went over some lochs and through more neighbourhoods we didn’t know. By now even Evgueni’s butt was complaining. Sorry, I mean he was complaining about his butt. In total, we cycled 26kms in 2.5 hours. It is now Tuesday and I am still sitting carefully and leaning ever so slightly onto the cushier parts.


We are attempting a similar bike ride (to IKEA) next weekend for some pillow cases and door handles!

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